Culture Through Food: The North End

The North End is one of the oldest residential neighborhoods in Boston, and even served as Colonial Boston’s first residential area. The neighborhood is famous for being an epicenter of Italian heritage and food in Boston, even serving as the home of some of the most famous Italian restaurants in the country. However, the population of the North End doesn’t necessarily reflect the Italian culture it is often associated with. 

Over the past 100 years, the Italian presence in the North End has dwindled significantly, with the population dropping from 90% Italian in 1920 to less than a third today, largely due to gentrification. In the 1950s, the Central Artery, a section of the freeway, and the Callahan Tunnel, a road tunnel below the Boston Harbor, started being built. The North End was in the middle of this construction, which caused the deterioration of the housing stock and city disruptions. As a result, many families lost their homes. It became harder for the original tenants to afford to live in the original  residential areas, as prices continued to rise, so businesses that could afford it took over the spaces. The Italian culture of the North End is kept alive by the long-standing restaurants that have embedded themselves into the culture of the neighborhood.

One of the most famous Italian cafes in the North End, Caffe Vittoria, has been up and running since 1929. The cafe is four stories high and brimming with historical architecture and machinery. The walls are adorned with centuries old coffee and espresso machines, showcasing the staying power of the restaurant. The establishment additionally continues to only accept cash as payment, showcasing extreme resilience in an era where digital payment is slowly usurping cash. The cafe serves as a beacon of Italian culture in the North End, even holding the title of the first Italian cafe in Boston.

Modern Pastry Shop is another one of the iconic, long-standing establishments in Boston’s North End, and has been family owned for over 80 years. The shop is run by the Picariello family, who immigrated from Italy in order to share their desserts with the world. On their website, the family emphasizes the importance of tradition in the North End, saying, “We as a community have faced a lot of up and downs, and we know those downs can be really hard, but know that we take every situation you bring to us seriously and thrive to only put out products of quality and tradition.” 

In an article by BU Today, journalist Susan Seligson aims to answer the question of “Is the North End Still Italian?”, reaching out to many different scholars and community members including BU professor James Pasto. In the article, Seligson states, “Boston’s North End has retained its Italian authenticity—even if that authenticity is kept alive and vibrant by proxy, says Pasto. Those who doubt that need only partake of the ricotta pie at Modern Pastry or the pappardelle with wild boar sauce or steak tympano at Bricco.” The article, as well as Pasto’s statement, emphasizes the importance of food in keeping Italian culture alive in the North End.

The North End has remained a staple in Boston’s history and culture for centuries. Despite no longer being populated by the Italian population that built it, the culture of the area is still kept alive by the food and restaurants that have been there for generations.

North End Entrance

Mother Anna's Restaurant

Vinoteca di Monica

Caffe Vittoria

Small alley leading to church

St. Leonard's Catholic Church

Flag of Italy on street

Caffe Paradiso

Modern Pastry Shop

Plaque on Paul Revere Mall